Choose, infuse, enthuse; tasting notes for three teas from the more contemplative end of the market. Do you drink different teas at different times?Last week I promised tasting notes on the green and white teasI tasted with Edward Eisler of Jing Teas so here are three of my favourites. They will never - indeed nothing will ever - separate me from my morning mug of builder's (currently made with Yorkshire Tea for hard water) but that's not quite the point. These teas are barely related to the cheapie teabag variety. They are teas for contemplative drinking. You can either make them by throwing a spoonful of leaves into a tall glass, filling with hot water, leaving a few minutes and then drinking without straining, which will give you a drink that grows increasingly stronger, and the occasional mouthful of leaves (no bad thing in this case). Or you can make the tea in a small pot (thus using fewer leaves), then decant the whole lot once it's ready and pour into small drinking cups as you need it so that you're able to drink it all at your preferred strength. A second, third, fourth, and sometimes even fifth infusion can then be made from the same leaves so they go a long way. And if the prices look steep (no pun intended), they are still cheaper, cup for cup, than those of a high street latte.Hand-made Gyokuro from JapanThe intense verdancy and long narrow shape of these rolled leaves reminded me of samphire. "Can you taste the umami? This tea is incredibly rich in it," said Eisler. The tea had a milky, almost succulent texture - slithering, gliding and roiling in the mouth rather than being sharp and clean, and it tasted of green vegetables such as edamame and sugar snap peas. This tea is best made with water at 50°C.• £12 for 10gOrganic Dragon Well Green Tea"The quintessential Chinese green tea," says Eisler. "There's a classic terroir for Dragon Well, around West Lake in Hangzhou, but high demand has led to over-fertilisation and over-cultivation. Actually quite nearby there's a much better terroir that's very rich - you can see it in the land, and the buds on the trees - and I now buy from there." The dried leaves resemble flattened pine needles, snap like crisps and they smell of roasted chestnuts "from the firing in a hot wok," according to Eisler. I love the taste of them dry, "They are used sometimes in cooking," says Eisler, "they're used steamed in prawn or fish dishes." This is a much more assertive, astringent and lively tea.• £6.90 for 50gSilver Needle White Tea from the Fujian province of ChinaWhite teas are left to wither for up to four days after picking, a process that means they lose their green colour but don't 'ferment' to a reddish brown like black tea. For silver needle, only the buds are picked. It's a tactile leaf, covered in fine, downy hairs like those on a dandelion clock, and it makes a calming drink, with a silky mouthfeel, curved edges and gentle perfume. "What I'm looking for in this is melon notes, a certain level of maltyness, sweetness and softness," says Eisler.• £6.90 for 50gFood & drinkguardian.co.uk © Guardian News & Media Limited 2009 | Use of this content is subject to our Terms & Conditions | More Feeds
How to drink: Tea (part two)
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