Heinz Beck is a German superchef whose restaurant in Rome is deemed one of the world's best. Now he's opened in London. But why should Matthew Norman care?In an age of innocence long before that little poppet on the Glade advert stated his desire to evacuate his bowels at Paul's, the TV ad that drove me closest to psychosis concerned microwavable pizza. It wittered on, in a Mind Your Languag
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