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Behind a Welsh pub's simple exterior lie far grander ambitions. Jay Rayner on the rise of the GriffinThe Felin Fach GriffinNear Brecon(01874 620 111).Meal for two, including wine and service, £110The Felin Fach Griffin, a pub with rooms near Brecon, has a simple slogan: "Eat. Drink. Sleep." If I had such a thing, mine would be almost exactly the same. Perhaps: "Eat. Drink. Sleep. See how long you
Brecon, PowysWhy it makes the gradeSandwiched between the Brecon Beacons and the Black Mountains, this inn – a handsome building, nestled among the wild hills of this national park – is something of a beacon itself. The interior is chintz-free; the bedrooms are all white walls, crisp sheets and four-posters, while the pub itself is full of traditional favourites; old school desks and chairs, an A