Heinz Beck is a German superchef whose restaurant in Rome is deemed one of the world's best. Now he's opened in London. But why should Matthew Norman care?In an age of innocence long before that little poppet on the Glade advert stated his desire to evacuate his bowels at Paul's, the TV ad that drove me closest to psychosis concerned microwavable pizza. It wittered on, in a Mind Your Languag
Restaurant review: More, London SE1
Posted by edwina 58 days ago (http://www.guardian.co.uk)
With the Real Greek, Theodore Kyriakou changed the way we think about Greek food. Can he repeat the trick with the neighbourhood diner?If any classical scholar with a mescaline habit decided to take the Christmas stocking filler market by storm with a modern-day version of The Iliad about Greek cooking, Theo Kyriakou would be his or her Achilles. He'd also have to be Agamemnon, Ajax and all the r
Jay Rayner reviews French restaurant Terroirs in London
Posted by edwina 84 days ago (http://www.guardian.co.uk)
Jay Rayner puts petty nationalism behind him at Terroirs, a restaurant that serves up robust French food from its little corner of ... LondonTerroirs Wine Bar & restaurant5 William IV st, London WC2,020 7036 0660.Meal for two, including drinks and service £75I was wandering through London's Borough Market, as you do when you're greedy, comfortably off, status-obsessed and middle class (the
Restaurant review: Eastside Inn, London
Posted by edwina 135 days ago (http://www.guardian.co.uk)
Flattery will get you everywhere, says Matthew NormanScore 8/10 (1 point added for immortality)Telephone 020-7490 9240 (bistro), 020-7490 9230 (fine dining)Address 38-42 St John Street, London EC1Open bistro, Tues-Sat, noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; fine dining, Tues-Fri, noon-2.30pm, Tues-Sat, 7-9.30pm. Price per head with water, wine and coffee around £45 (bistro), £70 (fine dining).Although
Why can't London do pavement cafes?
Posted by edwina 140 days ago (http://www.guardian.co.uk)
Why when other European cities enjoy pleasant al fresco summer dining, does London fail so miserably? Is there any town in Britain where it's pleasant to eat outdoors?In Italian cities, such swathes of pavement have been turned over to outside dining that motorists are forced to drive like maniacs down the tiny strips left between the tables. In Paris, spiritual home of the pavement cafe, most wa
Jay Rayner reviews Keelung, London WC2
Posted by edwina 148 days ago (http://www.guardian.co.uk)
A new Taiwanese eaterie in Chinatown is hard work for the indecisive diner, says Jay RaynerKeelung, 6 Lisle Street, Leicester Square,London WC2(020 7734 8128).Meal for two, including service, £75We stared at the menu, my friend and I, both baffled and bemused. We'd seen a document like this before and we knew exactly where: pinned to our respective fridges by magnets. It looked just like th
Taste of London - in the kitchen
Posted by edwina 150 days ago (http://www.guardian.co.uk)
Open kitchens are all the rage at the moment - but do we really want to dine with it all on show? Blogger and WoM Taste Festival Fringe tweeter The Ginger Gourmand wonders where the line should be drawnAmbling around Regent's Park last Saturday afternoon you could have been forgiven for thinking that Taste of London was all about celebrity chefs playing at front of house for the day. The top name
Taste of London: crab has sidled onto the menus of big-name chefs
Posted by edwina 151 days ago (http://www.guardian.co.uk)
At Taste of London Rejina Sabur, aka Gastrogeek, found one particular ingredient sidling onto the menus of big-name chefs. Versatile? Sustainable? What's the deal with crab?I had what can only be described as a joyously gut-busting time at the Word of Mouth fringe festival last weekend - brazenly gate crashing kitchens during the lunchtime rush, wolfing down plate after plate of delicious grub,
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