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What's compelled you to complain? Do you go in for table-thumping or seethe in silence then hit them with a dish best served cold?Giles Coren discovered yesterday that a fancy-pants restaurant had mistakenly charged him twice. History may never fully reveal what the critic said when he rang to complain, but a luckless underling reportedly suggested he 'calm down'. Knowing what we do, we can only
Heinz Beck is a German superchef whose restaurant in Rome is deemed one of the world's best. Now he's opened in London. But why should Matthew Norman care?In an age of innocence long before that little poppet on the Glade advert stated his desire to evacuate his bowels at Paul's, the TV ad that drove me closest to psychosis concerned microwavable pizza. It wittered on, in a Mind Your Languag
La Tour D'Argent hopes to raise a million euros with sale of rarities such as pre-revolution cognac It is one of Europe's oldest restaurants, a Paris landmark with a renowned wine cellar of nearly half a million bottles dating back centuries. Now, to clear space – and to raise €1m (£902,000) for renovation and investment – a selection from the cellar of La Tour D'Argent is going under the hammer
Mat Follas, 2009 MasterChef winner, has opened a restaurant. Has he bitten off more than he can chew? Far from itAdducing a corpse as a witness for anything is a cheap and distasteful gambit, so let me begin by suggesting that Keith Floyd, who died after lunching elsewhere in Dorset a few days after our visit, would have adored Mat Follas's first restaurant and might even have identifie
With the Real Greek, Theodore Kyriakou changed the way we think about Greek food. Can he repeat the trick with the neighbourhood diner?If any classical scholar with a mescaline habit decided to take the Christmas stocking filler market by storm with a modern-day version of The Iliad about Greek cooking, Theo Kyriakou would be his or her Achilles. He'd also have to be Agamemnon, Ajax and all the r
A testament to the transformative power of fine cookingSuch an arduous day had it already been, with many hours on jammed motorways either side of a vast lunch in Bradford, that spirits were low and intestinal acid levels high as we reached Birmingham. What are you hoping for from Opus, I asked the friend known as the Idiot, thanks to an addiction to hideous punning."What I hope," he replie
Online reviews posted by real people were meant to be a key part of the internet consumer revolution, but the latest ratings boosting wheeze is the most insidious yetIt has long been rumoured that a one-time London restaurant critic – don't even try to get me to identify them – was once seen outside the restaurant of a big name chef at dead of night, loading a case of prime claret and half a side
Jay Rayner puts petty nationalism behind him at Terroirs, a restaurant that serves up robust French food from its little corner of ... LondonTerroirs Wine Bar & restaurant5 William IV st, London WC2,020 7036 0660.Meal for two, including drinks and service £75I was wandering through London's Borough Market, as you do when you're greedy, comfortably off, status-obsessed and middle class (the