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The received behaviour on tasting a good New World syrah (and it will almost always be called that on the label, to distinguish it from the more flagrant and boisterous shiraz style) is to nod admiringly, murmur that it resembles a mini Côte-Rôtie/Hermitage/St Joseph (or some other appellation from the northern Rhône), then note approvingly that it also costs much less than thos