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Fresh goose, allotment veg and our own cherry brandyMy Christmas begins at 3pm on Christmas Eve, when I turn on Radio 4 to hear the Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols. At the same time I pour the pink champagne. Already on the plate are black bread and wild smoked salmon. The colours are as good as the taste.Real food is a hundred times better than lots of food. Eat less, enjoy more. Wild salm